Tuesday, April 12, 2011

What else to do in Donsol? (3rd of a series)

Really, people just go to Donsol for the whalesharks during the months that they come (Mar to May).  It just so happens that the fireflies also seem to be most active in those months.  So, for those without the luxury of many days of vacation you can actually fly to Legaspi (via Cebu Pac departing manila 9am) arriving in Donsol around lunchtime, pre-register in the afternoon, take the firefly tour that same night, go on the 7am whaleshark interaction batch (refer to Blog #1), go back to the resort to eat, pack up and fly off at 2pm - a 2D/1N trip.  I'd suggest going for a 3D/2N trip - do the same as I suggested above but going on a 10:30am batch the first morning then going again for another Butanding excursion on the second morning on the 7am batch - this way you maximize time in the water and seeing more sharks (or in case you were unlucky enough not to see sharks on the first morning).  You also have time to rest up or do other things on the 2nd afternoon.

Like I mentioned in the previous blog, my kids and I (along with their 2 cousins and my sister-in-law), did go "shrimping" (sorry, not sure if there is such a word) one night while we were there.  Basically, catching shrimp using a tried and true, local fishing contraption (sort of like a large scoop net) called a sudsud it means wading along the sandy/semi-muddy seashore up at waist-deep, sometimes chest-deep, water pushing or dragging the sudsud in front of you for 10-15minutes or so then pulling it up to see what you caught then continuing the same process (for us, we only did 2 hours, 6-8pm - the locals obviously can go about this the whole night and go farther away than we did that evening).  We got a friendly local fisherman to teach us how it's done, allowed us to try it 2-3 times, and then basically did the fishing for us while we walked behind him talking about things, bonding, enjoying the cool sea air and looking/checking on his catch. 

          here's a pic of the kids, their cousins, my sis-in-law and the fisherman (the guy on the far left) pushing the Sudsud
                                                                       pulling up the net to check for any catch

Trivia:  The Butandings just eat plankton - tiny microscopic plants and animals - that they filter through their gills and into their tummies.  Yes, they are not predators and therefore harmless (hence called gentle giants).  Among the plankton would be eggs and fry (tiny babies) of various fishes and whatever else swims or lives in the oceans - i guess some of the fry grew up to be what we caught...

Another trivia:  some of the plankton have their own bio-luminiscence (i.e. they can glow in the dark when disturbed) - the kids certainly were amazed at this and delighted every time our sudsud caused some to light up the water around us.

What did we catch?  Well, the sudsud was meant to catch shrimp and catch them we did - 4 different kinds.  Some bigger shrimp were seen jumping out of the water trying to avoid the net and did you know that the shrimp eyes glow in the water when light (from the fisherman's flashlight) is shone upon them?  We were told that on certain times of the month and if you're lucky, you could catch really big shrimp (ie prawns).  We also caught a few small fish and baby fish (the bigger fish can easily swim away from the net) - at least 5 different small fishes and at least 3 different kinds of baby flatfish (some are called flounder or soles; in tagalog, they are called dapa).  We caught a small eel, 3 different kinds of baby cuttlefish, one type of squid and several baby and small octupus, and 4 different kinds of crab - one of which we saw for the first time (the kids have been to many different beaches, ranging from white, brown even black sands.  They were amazed to see this new crab).
                  sample catch: shrimp, a baby flatfish (which we let go), a small crab.  In the hand is a baby cuttlefish

                                                                 the one that got away - one of many baby octopus

It was a visual delight for the kids as they saw all sorts of species.  It was also a hands-on experience as we asked them to get the catch with their own hands and sort them - all the baby fishes, baby octopus and baby crabs to be put back into the water and the ones to be kept for cooking to be put in our catch-box.  The kids initially were squeamish about it, using just 2 fingers (and dropping a few of our catch in the process back into the sea) and then later on using the whole hands to gently pick and sort the catch.  So, fishing with traditional method in the dark of night with only a flashlight but with family or friends, experiencing the cooling waters and the sea-breeze, catching all sorts of things and getting to touch them even - i'd say the kids very much enjoyed it (as did I).  So, if you have a budding field biologist or want to encourage an appreciation of nature and animal diversity or even get your kids to appreciate how hard and tiring it can be to catch your next meal or catch enough to earn a livelihood, at P300 for 2 hours, I'd say very much worth it! 

                                                 the fruit of 2hours - a plateful of freshly-cooked, sweet shrimp (yum!)
                                                                    adobong baby cuttlefish and octopus

Tip:  if you're going shrimping, make sure you're wearing strong sturdy slippers or, better yet, surf shoes.  You'll be wading ang walking on soft sand sometimes mixed with mud so slippers are likely to get stuck.  There are also shells and sharp stones on the seafloor so best not to walk on barefoot.  We also caught a single sea-urchin which caused some concern.  The solution - we all made sure to walk right behind the sudsud so that we avoid stepping on such things (although we didn't catch anymore sea-urchins after that individual one)

Let's see - Whaleshark excursion, firefly tour, then shrimping - what else?  Well, we did go to the grotto - it's a small shrine up a hill built by a local lady sometime back in dedication to Mama Mary.  To get there, you hire a tricycle (P250 for round trip good for 4-5people - i can give the name and contact no. of  Freddie, our tricycle driver if needed) which will take a 15-20 minute ride uphill past Donsol town, then you go trekking down a ravine and up the hill on a cemented stairway (the kids counted a total of 428 steps).  It's become sort of a pilgrimage site for locals because there are stations of the cross along the way and the shrine up on top (supposedly going 428 step becomes your act of penitence, hehe - not too tiring in my view) so during holy week, it could become crowded.  On other days, minimal or no people at all.  For a nature lover and birdwatcher like me, a very interesting place - something I will definitely find more time for on my next visit.

For the divers out there, Amor resort (and i guess the other resorts) offer trips to go diving and seeing large manta rays (yes, they also eat plankton!).  Am not a diver (yet!) so did not ask how much it would cost.  Am sure there are other diving spots in and around the place!

Other than the island hopping and tours outside of Donsol i mentioned in Blog 1, that's about it.  Donsol reverts back to a small, sleepy town after the month of May- most people look for work outside during the lean months or go back to fishing and/or farming...

Now, I suppose the local people have only started to reap the benefits of tourism and they have focused a lot on the Butandings for which they should be proud of and continue to monitor and protect.  Another activity which they could focus on (and earn some tourist income) could be fishing - i mean the soup of plankton which obviously attracts the whalesharks in large numbers will also attract the small fishes that also eat plankton.  The small fish in turn get eaten by the bigger fish and even bigger fish which keen fishermen would be willing to pay for.  I myself would be willing to pay for a banca and go out there in known fishing spots even with just a handline in the hopes of catching sizeable mackerel, tuna, or jacks.  Maybe a Donsoleno (or any enterprising Bicolano out there) could look into this?  I guess the locals need to regulate this (i.e. during specific months, using rod and reel or handlines only and with catch limits for certain species - maybe even catch-and-release) to ensure no overfishing takes place and there is limited impact on the environment

My sister-in-law, who's also keen about fishing, saw a small boy casting a handline from the shore - she borrowed the handline, got the sandworms used as bait and started casting.  She was able to catch a number of fish (mostly asohos as they are called in tagalog), which are small but, if she had spent more time and had enough bait she could have caught enough to have good fish stew.

                                                                     5 Asohos plus 1 unidentified fish species

 The fact that we caught a number of baby flatfish the night before would indicate larger, adult flatfish that like to crunch on the shrimp and crabs on the seafloor -and would make good fishing with the right surf-casting equipment. 

And so ends my series on the Butandings and Donsol

Sunset at Donsol Beach

p.s.  Thanks for viewing!

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Butanding! (2nd of a series)

Did you know that so many divers around the world have yet to even see a whale shark (aka Butanding)?  They may have been to other places where whale sharks have been sighted (such as off the coasts of Australia, Malaysia and Indonesia, some as well in Latin America) but sightings have been so few.  And, yet, here in our own country, in a very small laid-back rural town south of Luzon, you stand a more than 50% chance of seeing not just one whale shark if you go at the right months? - no need to even dive, just snorkel! No need to spend so much on air tickets on long flights, it's just an hour's flight away from Manila!

Photo taken from the Albay Tourism website
Best time of the year to go on a whale shark excursion?   March to May.  We were told that the whale sharks start appearing in March but peak season really starts in April and will gradually taper off towards the end of May (I was also told that there are more jellyfishes in the water during the month of May).  Even though the locals there will say that the whale sharks are wild animals and there is no guarantee you will see one, it's almost a certainty you will see at least 2 during April.

Photo also taken from the Albay Tourism website.  It's a big mouth but nothing to be scared of!

Going on a whale shark interaction basically means you and your family or friends hop on a banca with the 4-5 crew mentioned in my previous post.

Here's one of our spotters.  Note how close we are to the shoreline and note also Mt. Mayon in the background
Once a spotter has spotted a whale shark, the BIO will tell you which side of the boat you have to sit on, then you don your snorkeling gear and fins and wait for him to tell you to jump in the water.  Once in the water, it's a mad dash err swim to where the whale shark will hopefully cross your path and you get to either just sight him for a few moments or he gracefully glides by and you get the chance to swim a little bit at his side for a few breath-taking minutes.

Let's face it, look at a picture of a whale shark and he looks big but ungainly, poorly shaped, even ugly some would say.  But, put him in his home, the sea, and you watch him gracefully glide by totally at his element, a dark shape at first before the distinguishing deep black blue with white spots appears before your eyes and you feel small compared to his sheer bulk.  You realize there is a God - who else could think of something that looks so ungainly and ugly to be transformed into something so graceful and beautiful, all you could think of is "Thank you Lord for letting me see that Butanding..."

On the day we went, we took the 7am batch; we jumped off the boat (or Banca) 8 times and I saw 5 Whale sharks!  On our first 2 jumps, we saw nothing.  On our third jump, I saw only a dark shape way down the water as the Butanding had decided to go deep.  On the 4th jump, as I swam to where my family group had gone on ahead (I always made sure to let my kids and wife jump first), at first  didn't see anything in the murky water then suddenly - heartstoppingly - our first whale shark appeared.  He glided so slowly, I could see his eye, could see the details of his body - and then the sunlight broke through the water and everything sharpened and there I was with a silly grin in my mask and then I realized I didn't have my underwater camera - Aaarrgh!!!  On our subsequent jumps after that first encounter, we saw a whale shark - each encounter unique and uplifting.  On our 3rd shark sighting, I only actually saw the tail - and what a tail - only half was jutting out of the water and it towered majestically (like a plane's tail fin) above the swimmers' heads!

For some reason, the whale sharks only show up during mornings till noon.  There are 2 batches of boats going out each morning, the first at 7am and the second at 10:30am and only a maximum of 30 boats can go out per batch.  Each boat is supposed to only carry a maximum of 6 passengers/swimmers and will be out on the water for 3 hours at most.  Trust me - on peak seasons, those 30 boats slots go fast!

A trio of boats on the look-out for Butandings.  The spotters are on top.
So here's a tip - you can pre-register the day before.  We arrived on a Saturday noon at Donsol so that afternoon (the Visitor's center closes at 5pm) we walked and pre-registered for a trip the next day, even already picked out  our snorkeling gear, tried on fins for the right fit and had them reserved.

Here we are posing in front of the Butanding visitors center with our pre-selected gear and fins
Another tip:  if you can, go on a weekday.  There are more visitors on weekends, especially Sundays (some groups drive out to Donsol from Legaspi City just for the morning).  On the Sunday morning that we went for our whale shark excursion, there really were 30 boats out in Donsol's coastline.  It's rare that each of the 30 boats will have their own individual whale shark at each turn - more typically, the spotters will keep looking at the horizon for the whale shark's shadow but also keep an eye out on the other boats.  If they know a boat has already seen a whale shark, they will manuever their boat(s) in the direction where they hope the whale shark will go.  It's possible you will see batches of people from different boats lined up to take their turns at jumping and hoping to see the whale shark before it swims into the deep.  It's either the whale shark eventually gets tired with so many people swimming on top or at it's side or, in our case, spooked because some irritating foreigner will try to dive and go much closer to the whale shark, even touch it and/or snap a photo with flash (both of which are not allowed).  So, more boats could mean less sightings or crowded swimming lanes.  On a Tuesday morning, as we looked out from our beach front at Amor resort, there were very few boats out Butanding hunting...

So, which time would be better to go searching for Butandings, 7am or 10:30am?  Well, the locals say there are likely more sightings if you go on the 10:30am trips - something to do with the sun already out and the sharks stay more near the surface feeding closer to noon (it's also better for underwater visibility and, more importantly, underwater photography or video-taking).  The downside is, it's a lot lot hotter and you should take lots and lots of sunblock (and bring a hat/sunglasses).  Like I said, we took the 7am trip, not knowing any better at that time, and I still got to see 5 Butandings.  A friend of mine was there a week ago and she also took the 7am boat and saw 10 sharks.  A 7-7:30am trip means you're done around 10-10:30am so you'll still have time to go back to your resort, rest, shower and change, eat lunch, pack up and drive over to Legaspi airport for your flight home.  But at 7am, the water is COLD.  Even if I had worn a long-sleeved rashguard, it was still a shock of cold water every time we jumped in (although you certainly won't notice it anymore once a whale shark comes into view, hehe).  So, if you don't like cold water too much or have kids swimming with you, I'd suggest taking the 10:30am batch.

For those without exercise (i.e. the couch potatoes), you need to start exercising and build some stamina.  You will certainly be doing a number of jumping into the water, swimming and trying to catch-up with the shark(s), and then hauling yourself up the boat.  The more you can swim, the more swim-time you possibly get with a whaleshark.  For the stronger swimmers, they don't wear life-vests so they can swim faster and keep up.  Having fins certainly help...

One last tip - you don't need a fancy (and expensive) diver's underwater camera.  Any of those point-and-shoots that are good for up to 3 meters underwater will be good enough - you're only going snorkeling after all.  Make sure that you're camera is on full-charge and switched on once you jump in the water, no fumbling over the controls - sightings can come suddenly and be over quickly (I never got to take a pic or video underwater!).  Flash photography is not allowed and could disturb the whale shark so, before buying that camera, check out it's capability of taking pics underwater without a flash or see if can take video underwater).  Oh, and make sure your camera strap is not loose or frayed and that it's wrapped securely around your wrist - with all that jumping and swimming, one mistake could mean bye-bye camera as it sinks into the deep.

Finally, don't forget to tip your crew, especially the BIO if he's going to swim with you or your kids and makes sure you get to see a Butanding.

Next post - what else is there to do in Donsol

Saturday, April 9, 2011

BUTANDING! aka Whalesharks (tips for those going to Donsol, Sorsogon - kids or no kids)

My wife and a few friends have long been egging me to start a blog but to no avail.  I guess our recent trip to Donsol, Sorosgon and my (great? cool? awesome?) experiences with their Butandings have led to start this, my very first blog!

A Butanding (this pic is actually on the wall of Giddy's Place)
Our trip was a kinda spur of the moment decision.  There was, of course, my beautiful wife, Poi, and our two kids, Danna (12) and Anton (11).  Also at the last minute, we asked my brother-in-law, Berlin, his wife, Nita, and their youngest, Vernon (14), the kids' cousin to join us.  Rounding the group was another of the kids' cousin, Melbourne (13) for a total of 8.

Took CebuPac on a Saturday morning (Apr 2, 2011), landed in Legaspi City airport in about an hour, got fetched by the resort driver, passed by for a few shots at Cagsaua Ruins (alas, Mayon was hiding behind clouds!), then got to our home-for-the-next-5days, Amor Farm & Beach Resort after an hour or so.

1st question - is it ok to bring kids to "swim with the whalesharks?"  Yes, definitely!  My son loved it and wants to go back!  When we were there, I've seen other families with kids, some as young as possibly 6-7 years old!  Do they need to be good or strong swimmers?  It would be ideal (we had our kids practice their swimming and using their snorkeling gear for 2 weekends before we went) but as long as they know how to swim and are comfortable in the water, no problem - there are life-vests for kids so they can float and snorkel (and lessen the parents' worries!).  In the case of my kids, even though they were good swimmers, we made sure they had life-vests on.  The Butanding Interaction Officer (or BIO for short) was also kind enough to offer them to hang on to a flotation device and he swam/dragged the kids to where they can see the Butandings better.  I wouldn't suggest kids younger than 6 coz they just might get scared by the sheer size/bulk of the whale sharks plus they could get tired rather easily

1st Tip - bring cash.  No ATMs in Donsol (the nearest one is in the next town, Pilar, which is about 30-45 minutes drive away plus you're not sure if the ATM would be online when you go there) and not all establishments take credit cards (Amor Resort didn't have swipe machines either).  Approximately how much are you going to spend?  Let's see, below are some expenses:
  • if you're coming from Manila's NAIA3, there's a terminal fee of P200 per passenger
  • then you'll have to spend for airport transfer (Legaspi to Donsol) which cost us P2000 for a van (it was ok for us since there were 8 of us but i did find someone who's willing to pick up at a lower price)
  • of course, you'll have to pay for your accommodations (in Amor, we got 2 rooms for P2000/night - each room fit 2 adults and 2 kids, came with air-con, hot shower but no breakfast.  The resort has cheaper rooms even some fan-only rooms.  You can search for their rates at their FB under Amor Farm Beach Resort, or call them at 0909-5181150)
Our 2-bedrooms at Amor Farm & Beach Resort
Among the resorts we looked at, Amor is quite spacious and has a bit of more beach front.  If you look closely at the background, you can see a boat at the sea side looking for Butandings
  • and meals (breakfast at Amor will range from P60-100/person, lunches and dinners will cost P150-200/person.  Food was good and quite tasty at the resort, their waitresses always smiling and efficient enough) and drinks (tip: for sodas and juices, buy the 1liter or 1.5liter and just ask for glasses with ice - cheaper that way)
  • for the Butanding interaction, everyone has to go and register at the Butanding Visitor's Center (Registration Fee is P100/person for locals, P300/person for foreigners).  You register, you attend/watch a 10minute introductory video, and you pay for the boat (will cost P3,500 per boat, maximum no. of passengers they allow is 6. the boat comes with 4-5 crew including the BIO, spotter, driver, and helper.  Also comes with life-vests.  You need to bring your own snacks and drinks)
The pier where everyone waits till they get assigned their designated boats.
    • If you don't bring your own snorkeling gear plus fins, you can rent them - there are stalls at the center renting these out. One set (mask, tube, fins) will cost P300/person.  If you just rent the fins, it's P150/per person.  
    • Btw, the Butanding visitor's center is a nice leisurely 10 minute walk from Amor Beach Resort.  If you're going to stay at Giddy's Place, that's in Donsol town proper and you will need to take a tricycle to get to the center (costs P10 per person for short distances, P15-20 for slightly longer distances)
    • we also went for the firefly tour which  costs P1250 (the resort can arrange this for you).  This starts every 6pm and will take about 2 hours of riding a banca to the Donsol river to selected trees along the banks and back.  Nice experience especially for city slickers and kids who have grown up without ever seeing a real live aliptaptap (firefly aka lightning bug).  Here, you will see them gather around certain trees in large numbers such that the trees seem like live christmas trees (note - will not show up in cameras and will barely register in video cams or cell phones!).  The boat can accommodate 5 passengers plus the the boatman and a guide.  The locals there say that the fireflies are more numerous at a place called Ugud but that's much further away (will take more than an hour just go get there - and will cost more) - we didn't try that anymore
    On our way to the riverbank where the fireflies can be found
      • Fyi, Donsol is in Sorsogon - the last province in the Bicol Region while Legaspi is in Albay (the next province - where Mt. Mayon is).  If you're up to a tour of Legaspi city (see the Cagsaua ruins, go to Embarcadero, their newest mall by the sea, do to historic Daraga Church, buy pasalubong etc), the resort could arrange this and will charge you at least P3000 for a van that will be available for you with driver from 8am to 5pm.  Tip: in our case, we haggled it down to P2500 because we said it was only going to be half-day and we were going to do it on our last day and be brought straight to Legaspi airport after going round.  Other Tip: We went to Lingnon Hill on this tour, paid registration fee P20/adult, P10/kid.  There's a zip line there P350/person - includes a picture of you zipping by with Mt Mayon as background!  Nice!  If, however, you're going for the whole day tour, I suggest you spend a few hours riding/driving an ATV to Mt.Mayon (P1800/atv - single seater).  Btw, there are ATMs in Legaspi City
      the view of Mt.Mayon from Daraga church
       
      Danna at the zip-line
      Anton at the zip-line
      • still in donsol, we also went "shrimping" one night - wading along the seashore and catching shrimp the old-fashioned local way (with a net called sudsud).  We found someone who knew a local fisherman who was willing to show us and accompany us (me and the 4 kids).  The kids had a blast.  We caught enough shrimp to fill a big plate which of course we asked the kitchen at Amor resort to cook (steamed) for us.  We even caught some baby cuttlefish and octopus - tender and yummy, too!  We just paid the fisherman P300 for 2 hours
      • We were there on a Sunday and so heard Mass at Donsol church (took a 15-min tricycle ride at P15/per person).  Only one mass - 5pm - it was said in a mix of English, Tagalog and Bicolano
      • the locals (or the resorts) will also ask if you want to go island hopping - takes the whole day and a bit expensive at P6000 a boat.  This is coz the boat will already take you down Visayas to some small islands for snorkeling, there's one with white sand beach, and another with waterfalls.  We didn't try this anymore
      • finally, don't forget, there's a terminal fee in Legaspi city airport as you depart, P30/person 
      more tips to follow on the next post! (and some pics too)